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Make up she wrote (2004 edition)

I guess I am a girly-girl, I love reading about the latest make-up and skincare products and playing with same, and looking (or trying to look?) pretty and cute, and I want good skin; yet at the same time I'm not real high maintenance.  I don't do facials or mud packs or manicure/pedicures or all-day spas (though I can see an occasional spa day with girlfriends would be heaps of fun).  I simply can't justify the expense and its simply not my style - maybe too indulgent, when I'd rather spend the money on books?  

Anyways I figured that it might be kind of interesting to record my current make-up/skincare junkie regime and contents of several bathroom drawers, because I have changed a lot of elements in the last few years, taken on a new regime, and researched and trialled hundreds of products to find The Perfect [Moisturiser/Cleanser/Mascara/Whatever].

Reasons for change include limited finances, growing disgust at the Prestige Brands' extravagant claims vis a vis skincare and even more extravagant price tags, a wider range of cheaper but fantastic quality product lines becoming available, moving from the Southern Hemisphere to Northern and back to Southern climates and the havoc that played on my skin, and the inevitable changes and subsequent demands for a new skin-care routine as I get further into my 30s.  Also, perhaps, the horror of having several "age spots" cryo'd off by my dermatologist, just as I was congratulating myself on having hardly any wrinkles and no grey hairs (hello, wake up call ...).  However most people think I am in my mid-20s rather than mid-30s, just because I do have that whole round smooth baby-face thing going.

The challenge therefore was to find a new skincare regime to suit my changing skin needs, taking into account financial limitations, and above all the guiding principle of "Moisturise Moisturise Moisturise: Sun Protection Sun Protection Sun Protection".

Fortunately the "technology" (ha!) of the new "anti-ageing" (double ha! Fuck I hate that word ... deserves a rant all of its own, I'd say) products has trickled down from the Prestige Lines to cheaper brands.  Eg products containing AHAs, glycolic acid, Vitamins A, C and E, better "delivery systems", that is, nicer more effective lotions (I won't go into a rant over some of the pseudo-scientific poppycock about marine extracts, bird embryos, and other horse shit that some of the Really Prestige Lines eg Chanel, Dior, La Mer, waffle on about).  This means you can get the same kind of skincare and treatments at a third (or less) of the cost.

I must pause here to acknowledge and praise to the skies Heather Kleinman's Cosmetic Connection and her panel, upon whom I relied heavily during my search for the cosmetic junkie's Holy Grail, when faced with a bewildering array of products and claims.  Cosmetic Connection is one of my favourite "girly" sites; its an invaluable resource with its honest independent reviews and recommendations, and it provides lots of fabulous vicarious fixes and brilliant ideas for the web-surfing cosmetic junkie.  I just wish it wasn't quite so USAn oriented ... maybe they need an Antipodean panellist. 

So, after much trial and error, angst and despair, soul-searching and various successes and disasters (which I won't go into, but oh my god, the agony, the horror ... ), here's what I've ended up with:-

(NB:  I have noticed a very definite improvement in my skin's general appearance and texture since commencing this modified routine, so I'm damned pleased.)

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SKIN TYPE:   mid-30s, very fair (Celtic ancestry), neutral to dry, no oiliness or breakouts, some sun damage and pigmentation (age spots), mild rosacea between the eyebrows, the upper lip and chin. 

SKIN CARE

Moisturiser (day and night):  Olay Total Effects, Fragrance Free.  Admittedly, I've always been scornful about moisturisers advertising too-good-to-be-true age-prevention results, but once into my early 30s I did see a real need to address some of the problems; not suddenly seeing masses of wrinkles or experiencing a lightning flash of evangelical realisation or anything, but because my skin and thus its needs was changing.  My chief requirement from a moisturiser was a light but very hydrating lotion, preferably without sun protection components as (a) I want to use the same product at night and (b) I apply a super-duper sunscreen over the top every morning anyway.  Olay Total Effects is a clear winner, not only fulfilling the requirements but it feels lovely on, absorbs well into the skin after application (no Exxon Valdez oil slicks), and leaves my skin feeling soft and smooth and strokable.  (The Neutrogena line is great too.)

Treatments:  I'm not really sure how to categorise these products; they cross over categories and also come under the dreaded "anti-aging" heading.  However they are formulated for older, changing skin, and they do assist in the smoothing of skin, and the treatment and appearance of age spots and wrinklies.  I've used Paula's Choice 8% AHA Solution for some years now, on the initial advice of my (level-headed) dermatologist, and it does live up to its claims to gently exfoliate and smooth skin, soften lines, and treat/ease sun damaged skin. 

Then there is Olay Total Effects Intense Restorative Treatment, which is a more topical treatment for particular areas such as around the eyes, mouth, between the eyebrows and so on.  You know, those bits which look particularly dry and crepe-y and icky.  There has been a definite noticeable improvement particularly under my eyes towards the inner corners - there's no crepiness or fine lines at all.  Although not mentioned in the claims, it has also reduced the redness on my forehead, upper lip and chin so yay.

I also adore Clarins' Beauty Flash Balm and the Purifying Facial Mask as special treats - when I feel indulgent and extravagant.

Facial Scrub/Exfoliation: Olay Total Effects Face Renewal Wash.  I used to be a big big fan of Ponds Deep Pore Scrub, but after a couple of purchases where the new tube was two thirds empty and required Herculean efforts to squeeze the stuff out, plus it wasn't doing as good a job as I wanted, I decided a change was definitely in order.  I use this wash a couple times a week, in the shower, giving my face a thorough but gentle going-over.  The texture is very creamy and rich, with teeny but effective micro-particles.  It leaves my skin feeling incredibly clean and smooth and freshly glowing, without that sanded-furniture feeling many scrubs leave you with.  A clear winner and new favourite. 

Cleanser:  Neutrogena Extra Gentle Cleanser.  I've never been a great user of cleansers - but then, I never wore much on my face and I had clear skin even in adolescence, so there wasn't a lot to clean off!  Now I wear both more "product" and foundation regularly, I wanted a cleanser that wouldn't leave my skin feeling stripped and dry.  The Extra Gentle Cleanser does a superb and hassle-free job of cleansing; you dampen your face with warm water, pump a little lotion into your hands and rub hands together, then stroke and pat the lotion over your face, then rinse off with warm/tepid water.  It cleanses beautifully and leaves skin feeling soft and moist.

Eye Make Up Remover:  L'Oreal Plenitude's Eye Make-up Remover. I've been using this one for years, and although I've tried a couple of others (recommended by friends, websites etc), none have performed as well or been as generally agreeable as this.  It removes even full, heavy eye make up (liner, mascara, shadow etc) much more effectively than any other I've tried.  Its also very kind to my rather sensitive eyes and most importantly doesn't glug up my night/day contact lenses (tip: I use the quilted, round type of make-up remover pads, as they don't leave fibres in the lashes and are kind to eyes). 

Lip Balm:  I apply lip balm constantly, and carry tubes of Blistex Ultra in my handbag, pockets and desk drawers, as my lips get very dry in this harsh Southern Land.  I also slather on Carmex regularly - simply the best stuff and is also a life saver when one has a cold, not just for lip care but for patting on the sore cracked areas around your snozz.  Slather slather.  The handy sized pots are available for a few bucks at chemists and supermarkets.

Body Wash/Scrub/Moisturise:  I use Dove Moisturising Body Wash for Sensitive Skin on either a sponge or loofah for daily all over washing and exfoliation, plus a weekly all over scrub with a homemade sugar scrub for that extra smoothness and sheen - it is miles cheaper and much more effective, not to mention nicer, to make your own sugar scrub out of what's in your pantry than coughing up $$$ at the Body Shop or Origins.  I moisturise all over with Vaseline Intensive Care Body Lotion with Aloe Vera - I've tried all the Dove/Nivea/Garnier etc etc brands and always come back to this tried and true generational favourite.

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MAKE-UP

Foundation:  Cover Girl Aqua Smoothers Compact Foundation with SPF 15 (I use the Creamy Natural shade).  I've never been a major user of foundations, but have always preferred the compact-style packaging to liquid formulations and as these days I like to have some coverage in terms of both appearance and protection from the sun, the hunt was on for the perfect compact.  I was so excited when I discovered this one - recommended by Heather of course - I just about jumped up and down for joy and my devotion hasn't palled one iota.  It glides on smooth, silky and even, doesn't go chalky at all, you can vary the amount of coverage from light to full (does a simply dandy job of dealing with those blue circles under your eyes on a Monday morning) and has great staying power.  Its not at all drying - quite the opposite, it feels positively hydrating.  And its so handy for carrying about in your bag/purse for the occasional touch-up.  Wheeeeeeee!!!

If you prefer a liquid foundation, then I'd recommend the Cover Girl CG Smoothers All Day Hydrating Make Up (also in Creamy Natural) - it comes in a little flat tube, has a gel-like consistency and is just as delicious and happy-making as the Aqua Smoothers Compact - no SPF though so don't forget to slap on the sunscreen beforehand.

Mascara:  Maybelline Full'n'Soft (Waterproof) Mascara in Very Black.  I've been a devoted user of this product since it came out and I won't be changing.  I've tried a couple of others and they just don't measure up to my exacting requirements.  No flaking or glooping into contact lenses, no panda eyes, and it coats my very long curly but completely invisible eyelashes most satisfactorily.

Eye Liner:  MAC Kohl Eye Liner in Phone Number (dark grey); Tarnish (dark green); and Prunella (dark plum).  Simply gorgeous, deliciously soft rich pencils in an amazing range of shades.

For a more budget-conscious option, I go for the Cover Girl line again; there is a wide range of eye liners/pencils/pens, my favourite being the CG Smoothers Eye Liner in Slate (dark grey).  It is nearly as soft and rich as the MAC version, does a damn good job and is definitely the very nicest of all the budget/chemist lines.

Eye Shadow:  When it comes to colour cosmetics I'm a big MAC fan; I really really like their colours and groovy packaging (who me, image conscious? haha).  MAC is such FUN to play with!  All those lovely paints and pots to dabble your fingers in ... like painting-time at kindergarten for grown up ladies - and discerning gents!  It really is worth going for the best quality (unfortunately pricier) eye shadows as the pigments are finer ground and of a more intense colour, plus they wear better and don't end up speckled halfway down your cheeks.   I wear greens (Humid; Sprout), pinks and plums (Shroom; Digit; Shale) plus a full-on show-off glittery gold (Goldmine).

I also really like Revlon's Wet/Dry Eye Shadow Quads - they are fantastic value, have lovely combinations of shades, have a very smooth fine texture which blends beautifully, and are extra versatile because you can use them either dry for soft sheer colour or add a drop of water to your brush for a more intense colour.  I love the Silver Lining quad (fabulous greys) and the Coffee Bean palette - browns, which supposedly suit everyone usually make me look deathly ill but these are pretty nice, subtle with rich golden undertones, so no looking like a recently dug up zombie.  The Cover Girl 3- and 4-Kit Eye Shadows are very nice shadow combos too.

I cannot stress strongly enough how important it is to use really good quality brushes for applying and blending eye-shadows and blush.  MAC makes gorgeous brushes, and you certainly don't need the full range - I use only three; a soft angled blush brush, a tapered blending brush for eye-shadow, and the small stiff angled brush for brows (see below).  I use cheap sponge tip applicators (from Priceline) for when I want a more intense application of shadow at lash line and crease, then blend with the good brush.

Brows:  MAC Eye Shadow in Omega or Coquette, applied with the MAC small stiff angled brush.  I have thick brows but they are so blonde as to be invisible, and I prefer to apply eye shadow with a brush as opposed to a pencil - I get a much more natural look, plus I'm hopelessly cack-handed and uncoordinated so a pencil would be disastrous!

Blush:  I've never been a big fan of blush, thinking it unnecessary and being put off by "mature" ladies wearing hectic bright orangey blush and looking ghastly ... but MAC's Sheertone Blush in Gingerlily completely won me over.  It looks natural and soft, and applied with the MAC angled blush brush does a great job of making round-cheeked me look like I have cheekbones! (ie, its great for contouring and shaping).

Lipstick:  A bit of a mix; mostly MAC (Carnal; Spice It Up; Twig), with a couple of others. Christian Dior (Autumn Rose), Maybelline (Wet Shine Rose Jam), David Jones (Cinnamon Toast).  I prefer MAC lippies to all else, to be honest, and I've tried all the cheapies and Prestige Brands going.  I like the different formulations and the shades are incredible - really true colours and what a range.  I also use the MAC Clear Lipglass for extra sexy gloop and gloss.  Mmm mmmmm.

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So there you have it.  I put on moisturiser, sunscreen, a touch of foundation, mascara, eyeliner, brows and lippie for work and day-wear, plus blush and eye colour when I go out at night.  I go bare-faced when pottering around at home, apart from moisturiser and sunscreen, and ditto for the gym.  That whole "working out in full war paint" look just leaves me cold, and is a concept I simply can't get my head around.  And those who do wear full make-up look simply frightful.  I go so far as to cleanse totally before heading to the gym, because the look and feel of sweating and working out through make-up is gross.  

The biggest, bestest thing to do for your skin is, of course, and I know you've all heard this several kerzillion times before, to exercise frequently and drink lots of water (eg, two litres a day, maybe more if exercising).  It really does get your face all glow-y and fresh looking, and best of all is, you feel fabulous within yourself, and about the way you look, and that really does make more difference than all the Prestige Brands, Botox, collagen injections and god-knows-what ever will.

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