Wednesday 10 December 2003
Make up she wrote (2003 edition)
I figured that an update on this particular skincare and make-up junkie's regime and contents of several bathroom drawers was in order, it being three years since I last wrote about it and it being that general end of the year wrap-up time.
There's been a fair number of changes. Reasons include limited finances, growing disgust at the Prestige Brands' extravagant claims and price tags, a better range of cheaper but good quality product lines becoming available, experiencing moving from the Southern Hemisphere to Northern and back to Southern climates and the havoc that played on my skin, and the inevitable changes and subsequent demands for a new skin-care routine as I get further into my 30s. Also, perhaps, the horror of having several "age spots" cryo'd off by my dermatologist, just as I was congratulating myself on having hardly any wrinkles and no grey hairs (hello, wake up call ... ).
The challenge therefore was to find a new skincare regime to suit my changing skin needs, taking into account financial limitations, and above all the guiding principle of "Moisturise Moisturise Moisturise: Sun Protection Sun Protection Sun Protection".
Fortunately the "technology" (ha!) of the "anti-ageing" (double ha! Fuck I hate that word ... deserves a rant all of its own, I'd say) products has trickled down from the Prestige Brands to cheaper lines. For example, products containing AHAs, Vitamin A, C and E, better "delivery systems", ie: nicer more effective lotions (and I won't go into a rant over some of the pseudo-scientific poppycock around about marine extracts, bird embryos, and other horse shit that some of the Really Prestige Brands waffle on about). This means you can get the same kind of skincare and treatments at a third (or less) of the cost.
I must pause here to acknowledge and praise to the skies Heather Kleinman's Cosmetic Connection and her panel, upon whom I relied heavily during my search for the cosmetic junkie's Holy Grail, when faced with a bewildering array of products and claims. Cosmetic Connection is one of my favourite "girly" sites; its an invaluable resource with its honest independent reviews and recommendations, and it provides lots of fabulous vicarious fixes and brilliant ideas for the web-surfing cosmetic junkie. I just wish it wasn't quite to USAn oriented ... or maybe they need an Antipodean panellist.
So, after much trial and error, angst and despair, soul-searching and various successes and disasters (which I won't go into, but oh my god, the agony, the horror ... ), here's what I've ended up with:-
(NB: I have noticed a definite improvement in my skin's texture, general appearance and feel since/whilst using this modified routine, so I'm damned pleased.)
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SKIN TYPE: 34-year old skin, very fair (Celtic ancestry), neutral to dry, no oiliness or breakouts, some sun damage and pigmentation (age spots), with mild rosacea between the eyebrows, above the upper lip and chin.
SKIN CARE
Moisturiser (day): Olay Total Effects with UV Protection. Admittedly, I've always been a trifle scornful about moisturisers advertising too-good-to-be-true age-prevention results, but once into my early 30s I did see a real need to address some of the problems; not suddenly seeing masses of wrinkles or experiencing a lightning flash of evangelical realisation or anything, but because my skin and thus its needs was changing. My chief requirement from a moisturiser was a light but very hydrating lotion, with a Sun Protection Factor of at least 15. Most moisturisers with SPF that I've tried in the past have made my skin break out in spots and itch crazily, so I approached new subjects with caution. This is a clear winner, not only fulfilling the requirements but it feels lovely on, absorbs well into the skin after application (no Exxon Valdez oil slicks), and leaves my skin feeling soft and smooth and strokable. (Neutrogena Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF 15 is also fantastic, pretty much interchangeable really, although I do find the Total Effects formulations more ... well ... effective vis a vis "treating" fine lines and rosacea.)
Moisturiser (night): Olay Total Effects (plain, fragrance free, no SPF). I do need a night-time moisturiser now, and after using Ponds for years and to have it suddenly disagree rather violently with my skin, this was the first one I tried and I don't think I'll be changing. Again it fulfils requirements, moisturising beautifully, leaving my skin soft and smooth. When my skin is particularly dry, I slather extra on to give myself a hydration treatment mask - same effect, less fuss, and without having to buy an additional product.
Treatments: I'm not really sure how to categorise these two products; they cross over categories and also come under the dreaded "anti-aging" heading. However they are formulated for older, changing skin, and they do assist in the smoothing of skin, and the treatment and appearance of age spots and wrinklies. I've used Paula's Choice 8% AHA Solution for some years now, on the initial advice of my (level-headed) dermatologist, and it does live up to its claims to gently exfoliate and smooth skin, lines, and ease sun damaged skin. The other product is Olay Total Effects Intense Restorative Treatment, which is a more focused treatment for particular areas such as around the eyes, mouth, between the eyes and so on. You know, those bits which look particularly dry and crepe-y and icky. I've only used this light cream in a slim tube for a couple of weeks (at time of writing) and have noticed an improvement particularly under my eyes towards the inner corners. Although not mentioned in the claims, it has also reduced the redness between my brows and on my chin (I have slight rosacea) so yay.
Exfoliation: Garnier Pure Deep Pore Wash. I used to be a big big fan of Ponds Deep Pore Scrub, but after a couple of purchases where the tube was, I swear, two thirds empty and required herculean efforts in squeezing the stuff out, plus it wasn't doing as good a job as I wanted, I decided a change was definitely in order. Although I don't have skin that's particularly oily or prone to blemishes, I always find that the scrubs/washes formulated for those kinds of skin types are better, gentler and more effective than those strictly for "my type". So it proved with this one ... its more of a wash with "microparticles" in a gel base than other scrubs I've tried and discarded (those with harsher exfoliating particles in a cream formulation) and it works beautifully. I use it a couple times a week, in the shower, giving my face a thorough, but gentle going-over. It leaves my skin feeling incredibly clean and smooth and freshly glowing, without that sanded-furniture feeling many scrubs leave you with. A clear winner and new favourite. Kudos and gratitude to Fifi (beautician and de-fuzzer extraordinaire) who recommended this brand and by which I've been most impressed. It also has the advantages of being cheap and available in chemists and big supermarkets (eg, Coles, Target).
Cleanser: Neutrogena Extra Gentle Cleanser. I've never been a great user of cleansers - but then, I never wore much on my face and I had clear skin even in adolescence, so there wasn't a lot to clean off! Now I wear both more "product" and foundation regularly, I wanted a cleanser that wouldn't leave my skin feeling stripped and dry. The Extra Gentle Cleanser does a superb and hassle-free job of cleansing; you dampen your face with warm water, pump a little lotion into your hands and rub hands together, then stroke and pat the lotion over your face, then rinse off with warm/tepid water. It cleanses beautifully and leaves skin feeling soft and moist.
Eye Make Up Remover: L'Oreal Plenitude's Eye Make-up Remover. I've been using this one for years, and although I've tried a couple of others (recommended by friends, websites etc), none have performed as well or been as generally agreeable as this. It removes even full, heavy eye make up (liner, mascara, shadow etc) much more effectively and with less product required than any other I've tried. Its also very kind to my rather sensitive eyes and most importantly doesn't glug up my night/day contact lenses (tip: I use the quilted, round type of make-up remover pads, as they don't leave fibres in the lashes and are kind to eyes).
Lip Balm: Bonne Belle Lip Balm SPF 30. I use this daily, and carry a couple of spares in my handbag and about my person, as my lips get very dry in this Southern Land and I like to apply this nice non-gooey formulation regularly. I also slather on Carmex when things get really nasty (chapped, rough, cracked, peeling, bleeding ... ). Carmex is simply the best - dead brilliant stuff and is also a life saver when one has a cold - not just for lip care but for patting on the sore cracked areas around your snozz. Slather slather. The small handy sized pots are available for a few bucks at chemists and supermarkets.
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MAKE-UP
Foundation: Cover Girl Aqua Smoothers Compact Foundation with SPF 15 in Creamy Natural. I've never been a major user of foundations, and have always preferred the compact-style packaging to liquid formulations, but as these days I like to have some coverage in terms of both the look of the thing and protection from the sun, the hunt was on for the perfect compact. Heather Kleinman recommended the Cover Girl Aqua Smoothers Compact in a review of foundations on her website, and I got all excited - only to discover that the CG website was most definite about the fact that Aqua Smoothers was not available outside the USA. Discouraged, I moped ... until I went to Target to buy something else entirely and there it was! (note to CG: update your website, dudes). I am so very very pleased with this product, I just about jumped up and down for joy the first times I used it. It glides on smooth, silky and even, doesn't go chalky at all, you can vary the amount of coverage from light to full (does a simply dandy job of dealing with those blue circles under your eyes on a Monday morning) and has great staying power. Its not at all drying - quite the opposite, it feels positively hydrating. And its so handy for carrying about in your bag/purse for the occasional touch-up. Wheeeeeeee!!!
If you prefer a liquid foundation, then I'd recommend the Cover Girl CG Smoothers All Day Hydrating Make Up also in Creamy Natural - it comes in a little flat tube and is just as delicious and happy-making as the Aqua Smoothers Compact - no SPF though so don't forget to slap on the sunscreen beforehand. Other great liquid foundations discovered during The Quest were basically anything from the Laura Mercer range (again, following recommendations from the Cosmetic Connection squad).
Mascara: Maybelline Full'n'Soft (Waterproof) Mascara in Very Black. I've been a devoted user of this product since it came out and I won't be changing. I've tried a couple of others and they just don't measure up/meet my exacting requirements. No flaking or glooping into contact lenses, no panda eyes, and it coats my long curly but otherwise totally invisible eyelashes most satisfactorily.
Eyeliner: MAC Kohl Eye Liner in Phone Number. The bestest, softest, yummiest kohl pencil in the world. I only have the one eyeliner, though there are some gorgeous shades in the range that are very tempting indeed ... a luscious olive green, a deep plum ... hmmm.
Eye-shadow: A real mixed bag, including MAC (Shroom, Digit, Shale - pinks and plums), Christian Dior (a palette of greens) and Revlon (a palette of greys). When it comes to colour cosmetics I'm a big MAC fan; I really like their colours and groovy packaging (who me, image conscious?) the best. When the CD and Revlon shadows need replacing, then its off to MAC I go. MAC is such FUN to play with! All those lovely paints and pots to dabble your fingers in ... like painting-time at kindergarten for grown up ladies (and discerning gents)! It really is worth going for good quality (unfortunately pricey) eye-shadows as the pigments are finer ground and of a more intense colour, plus they wear better and don't end up speckled halfway down your cheeks. I have decided upon this absolute fact after much bitter experience (Alas, poor wallet ... ).
I also cannot stress strongly enough how important it is to use really good quality brushes for applying and blending eye-shadows and blush. MAC makes gorgeous brushes, and you certainly don't need the full range - I use only three; a tapered blending brush for eye-shadow, a soft angled blush brush, and the small stiff angled brush for brows (see below).
Brows: MAC Eye-shadow in Omega or Coquette, applied with the MAC small stiff angled brush. I prefer to apply eye shadow onto my thick but so blonde as to be invisible brows, as opposed to a pencil - I get a much more natural look; also I'm hopelessly cack-handed and uncoordinated so a pencil would be disastrous!
Blush: I've never been a big fan of blush, thinking it unnecessary and being put off by "mature" ladies wearing hectic bright orangey blush and looking ghastly ... but MAC's Sheertone Blush in Gingerlily completely won me over. It looks natural and soft, and applied with the MAC angled blush brush does a great job of making round-cheeked me look like I have cheekbones! (ie, its great for contouring and shaping).
Lipstick: Again with the mixed bag; mostly MAC (Spice It Up, Strength, Twig), with a couple of others; Christian Dior (Autumn Rose), Maybelline (Crushed Cranberry), David Jones (Cinnamon Toast). I prefer MAC lippies to all else, to be honest, and I've tried all the cheapies and Prestige Brands going. I particularly like the "lustre" formulation (I'm not a big matte fan) and the shades are incredible - really true shades and what a range - hanging out at the MAC counter could keep me amused (and often has) for hours at a time. I also use the MAC Lipglass in Clear for extra gloss and pout. Mmm mmmmm.
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So there you have it. I put on the SPF moisturiser, SPF foundation, mascara, eyeliner, brows and lippie pretty much every day, blush and eye colour when I go out at night. I go bare-faced (apart from moisturiser) when pottering around at home, which admittedly is a lot of the time, and ditto for the gym. That whole "working out in full war paint" look just leaves me cold, and is a concept I simply can't get my head around. I will go so far as to take off every scrap of make-up and just wear moisturiser before heading to the gym, because the look and feel of sweating and working out through make-up is icky and odious in the extreme. And those who do wear full make-up look simply frightful.
The biggest, bestest thing to do for your skin is, of course, and I know you've all heard this several kerzillion times before, to exercise frequently and drink lots of water (eg, two litres a day, maybe more if exercising). It really does get your face all glow-y and fresh looking, and best of all is, you feel fabulous within yourself, and about the way you look, and that really does make more difference than all the Prestige Brands, Botox, collagen injections and god-knows-what ever will.
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